Monday, October 31, 2016

Day 114: Spain Day 8


Wednesday, September 14, 2016

We woke up at 8 and packed up to go.  We planned to go from the Málaga beach to the estuary of Río Guadalhorce, a really good spot for birds, and finally to Las Cuevas del Becerro.  We said goodbye to Beatriz, our nice hostess, and drove to Málaga.

It took a while to find parking, and we finally did on the road parallel to the beach.  We walked on el Paseo Marítimo, the beautiful walkway by the beach, and looked around at the shops nearby.  Then, it was time to eat!!!

Lunch
We ate at La Casa José, a small restaurant 75 feet away from the shore.


Olives and anchovies

If you haven´t tried Lemon Fanta you haven´t fully exercised your rights of drinking

YES CLAMS

Espeto = sardines grilled on a stick

Calamare = fried squid


When we got back to our car, we realized that someone had broken a window and stolen our suitcases and backpacks, save for my mother´s suitcase because it was big and already opened to reveal just clothes inside.  That was a very unpleasant rest of the day, going to the police, remembering various personal and impersonal valuables that had been suddenly taken away.  The upside was that we were all okay, the policemen were very nice and helped us a lot, and we were able to see our cousins again.  Leticia and her family graciously let us stay with them the night, and I really enjoyed hanging out with them again.  The robbery was hard to get through, but we did not let it hinder us too much on our plans.  We canceled our stay in Cuevas del Becerro, but still planned to go to a beautiful forest and lake area called El Chorro the next day.

Sunday, October 30, 2016

Day 113: Spain Day 7

Tuesday, September 13, 2016
We woke up around 9:30 as our parents left to scope out a churrería.  Vanessa and I read until they returned with hot churros and chocolate, and, strangely enough, the need for some alcohol.  You see, my dear parents (they are seriously so awesome) had turned the completely wrong way when trying to go to Malaga to find churros.  They had ended up driving further up the mountain on the edge of a cliff and whose road had no guard rail.  Nice.  So, they needed a de-stressor

Calle Larios
We went to El Centro, the busy center of Malaga.  I love el centro with its touristy shops, guys on the side of the cobblestone streets selling candied nuts, colors everywhere, the huge market bustling with people, a hubbub of activity all around.  We ate lunch at Del Norte Al Sur, me eating fries with a fried egg and jamon serrano on top (to die for), lemon Fanta, and cafe con leche for dessert.  Vanessa had one of the best grilled shrimp I´ve ever tasted.

Picasso
We went to the Picasso Museum, a building close to the small house that Picasso was born and grew up in.  The sad thing about Picasso is that he never returned to Malaga after he first left at 18, but I can´t say I blame him since Spain was, at the time, ruled by the evil dictator Francisco Franco.  Anyway, I had been to this museum once before with Vanessa, and it was interesting to see the galleries that had changed.  He was an amazing artist with abstract and incredibly realistic artwork.

Leticia y familia!
My mom's cousin Leticia and her family are wonderful, and we went to their apartment in Malaga to chat and go out to eat.  We had a great time talking and joking around while eating some delicious tapas.  After hours of talking and eating, we went our separate ways content and full.








Day 112: Spain Day 6

Monday, September 12, 2016
We woke up early this morning--6:45--in order to get on the trail early.  There are many hiking trails throughout the area, since there are mountains surrounding the Casas Bajas valley.  We went up along the river and then a small gravel trail.  It went zigzagging up a scrubby mountain that overlooked the town.  There were a few signs of farm life: olive groves, some dilapidated old farm storage buildings, and a short squat stone fence zigzagging up away from the trail.  The view of the valleys below was stunning.
Walking up a bit more, we discovered a manmade cave made of rocks, and another storage unit, the roof made of thatched bamboo.

We got back around 10 and were ravenous.  We ate bread with Nocilla, a jamon serrano meat pie thing that was really good, paraguayo that was also very good, kiwi, and pear.  We chatted with our nice hostess Carmen as we ate.
Then we went to the square after packing and ate some olives and peanuts along with the best drink ever: Lemon Fanta.  Vanessa and I got enormous jamon serrano, olive oil, and herb sandwiches for the road.

The road....is long and annoying
So, the iPhone Maps app sometimes sucks if anyone was wondering.  It took us to the wrong address after literally 7 hours of driving.  So, 9 hours after leaving Casas Bajas, we finally got to a gas station near Malaga, the southern coastal city that my mom´s family is from.  Our hostess for this house drove like a crazy woman up a mountain to show us to our home for 2 nights.  Sadly, the house was lacking in the clean department, but it had beds, so we slept and tried to forget about the very, very long trip that day.


Almond



Inside a tiny manmade cave

Wild blackberries


Wonderful lunch for the road

Day 111: Spain Day 5

Sunday, September 11, 2016

We woke up at 8 in a packing frenzy, because we realized we had to get out by 10.  We packed and said goodbye to our sweet hostess Ana and her husband, then drove and parked near the beach.  We ate at a cute cafe catering to English-speaking tourists since their chalkboard out front by the walking and bike lanes was advertising everything in English.  They had great music taste too, playing Coldplay, Maroon 5, and an Ellie Goulding song that was actually good.  We ate under light cloth covering small tables with lights, looking at the beach and sea.  We each got the amazingly fresh orange juice ans a mini jamon serrano sandwich.

On the road
A long trip using Siri and the photos of the route that did little to help with navigation.  The countryside was nice though, and when we were hungry, we followed some road signs to a town we had at first seen in the distance.  It had white zig zags above it going to a building we later found out was a church.  The town looked quaint, typical Spanish, and oddly deserted.  It was slightly eerie, and just as we (ok, maybe it was just me) were starting to wonder if the apocalypse had happened and we had just missed the memo, we saw one soul (aka living human) walking ahead of our car.  We decided to follow him--he would lead to salvation/food right?  We got to a plaza and attempted to find parking, then went into the bar where old men were smoking cigars and drinking outside, staring at us. Hey guys!! We´re from ´Murica/definitely not from here if you couldn´t already tell....walk away walk away into the restaurant...
  The waiter informed us that there wasn´t anything to eat yet, but we got some water and my parents beer as we tried to figure out how to get past the whole siesta-time-meaning-kitchen-closed thing.  Then the guy we had followed came in and sat down at a table with an enormous jamon serrano sandwich wrapped in paper.  Ummm, that´s exactly what we are looking for.  The guy soon asked us if we were staying to watch the game.  Mama said no, and as a family we started talking in English about what we were going to do about eating.

The English guy
The guy with the sandwich asked us if we spoke English, and when we said yes, he said that was better for him too.  We found the one British guy in the entire town!  What are the odds that the one guy we see from the start is the only person in town whose first language is English?  Well, we learned that he had lived in Valencia for a few years before coming to this town, a town that is quiet in the off-season, but poppin in the summer--all of the rich people come to party there.  Interesting.  He is known as El Inglesa in the town, and told us that he had gotten the delicious-looking sandwich at a bar up the road.  As friends came into the back room of the bar to watch the soccer match and greeted El Inglesa enthusiastically, we went to the bar down the street.

Lunch
The nice owner was watching a telenovela and talking on the phone when we arrived.  There were fresh tomatoes and such in baskets in the corner of the seating area, and pictures of the Mexican conquistador Zapata on the wooden walls.  We ate like freaking conquistadors, but without the mercilessness.  Fresh tomato wedges in olive oil, olives, calamare (fried squid), jamon serrano, hot bread, manchego, and a cafe con leche for dessert.  The awesome waitress talked to us for a bit; she´s from Colombia and has lived in the States.









Casas Bajas
It took us a couple more hours to reach our next Airbnb stop: a smallllll town called Casas Bajas.  It was picturesque.  Bell tower, cobblestone streets, old men outside, a Plaza de España (apparently most Spanish towns have a Plaza de España).  The house was fantastic!  All wood beams and four floors and as rustic as you can get.  We took a birding walk to the old mill house and trails by the Rio Turia as our mom ran, then went and ate at a bar around 10 pm.  We went to bed in our awesome third floor living quarters, sleeping well.


Hilarious metal man in front of the old mill in Casas Bajas

Strike a pose dude


This is the essence of the awesome house we stayed in



Day 110: Spain Day 4

Saturday, September 10, 2016

I woke up around 8:30 and we all got ready to find some churros, the amazing fried dough strips that Spain is very well-known for.  People dip it in a very thick and very beautiful chocolate sauce, or coffee with milk.  Alas, after much asking and walking around, we discovered that there were not any churrerías this time of year (after tourist season, and in Cataluña).  So, we went to a pastelería instead and bought some goodies.

Breakfast
OH YEAH.  Fried egg, chorizo, and a chocolate croissant :)


Beach
We went to the beach with our mats and sunbathed and read for a while. We were really hot after a while, and decided to get some refreshing drinks at the beachfront bar.  We went to the Bar Chillout place and discovered an absolutely ingenious idea: a beach bed--a foam bead with foam pillows that you can lay on and eat/drink.  We all enjoyed the luxurious situation, and V and I drank a virgin piña colada and ate some fantastic patatas bravas and olives.

Terrassa
It took forever to get to Terrassa, the city where my mom´s cousin on her dad´s side and her family live.  We finally got there and went to Estefania´s apartment.  Her children are sooo cute and already bilingual: their dad is Cataluñan and Estafania knows the language, as most people do in the region, so they know that and Spanish.  As my mom and Estefania talked, my dad, sister and I played with Claudia, the eldest, at 7 years old.  Her adorable brother Eric, 2 years old, followed and watched us work on a puzzle and run around getting chased by a lunatic Mickey Mouse riding a bike.

We all went to the hospital to see Estafania´s father Pepe Luis.  He suffered from a stroke a couple months back and then got a throat infection in ICU.  He had a tube in his throat, thus couldn´t speak, but he utilized a marker and whiteboard to have a conversation about how he was doing.  The other patient in the hospital room was awesome.  He and my mom got along really well, and he was really interesting, talking animatedly about soccer.  He must of been a good guy too because he got a lot of caring visitors in the short span of time we visited Pepe Luis.

Dinner
We walked back the way we came (UPHILL), and saw some incredibly dark storm clouds.  Of course we were walking directly towards them.  With rain threatening to drop, we  met with Ampáro, our grandfather´s half-sister, and her boyfriend and went into a restaurant.  Just in time, we heard the storm raging outside.  We got some tapas to eat: chicken kabobs, chocos (squid), fries, chicken wings, olives, and patatas bravas.  We had a really interesting conversation with Ampáro and her boyfriend Paco about their travels by cruise to Italy and up the Mediterranean, Ampáro absolutely loved Pompeii.  Vanessa and I told them about our gap year and bird banding and Nicaragua.  Saying goodbye was hard. By then it was 10:30, so we walked Estefania and her kids to their apartment.

We went to a bar close by so that my mom and sister could go to the bathroom, and I ordered a cafe con leche for my dad.  We both watched the soccer match between Barcelona and a team I had never heard of--los Ave.  The patient by Pepe Luis had been hoping that Barca would win.  Here they were though, down 2-1.  That´s basically unheard of for Barca against such a lower-ranked team.  Everyone collectively sighed when a poor shot was made by Barcelona.  We decided to watch the rest of the match (there were 5 minutes left), so we stayed to sadly see the few minutes of Barca´s loss.  I loved the unified feeling of everyone though.
 We drove home, getting lost of course, because the Spanish roads take a while to get used to.  The inky black sky was beautiful.

Storm's a-comin'

Storm frenzy

View from the hospital window



Aaaah thank goodness we got to the restaurant before the rain came down

Day 109: Spain Day 3

Friday, September 9, 2016

We all woke up at 8 to my mom´s alarm.  She made tortilla de patata (typical Spanish omelette) as Vanessa and Iread and journaled outside, watching a pair of new warblers in the gardens below.  Our dad went to try to find our car that he had parked last night.  The tortilla was delicious, and we ate it with peaches, the paraguayos (which were sadly past their prime by now, so not very juicy or flavorful), and bread with butter and Nocilla.

Beach
We walked to the beach and found that there was a superb-looking street market blocking our way.  V immediately found a beautiful green cloth purse for 9 €.  Mama, V, and I kept looking through the market as my dad went to try to find the car again (the streets are very deceiving).  We bought some, I know, so luxurious, socks.

Beach time!  The three of us got to the beach and felt the cold, crisp, clear water of the Mediterranean sea.  I attempted to skip rocks (the beach shore was covered in glistening smooth rocks and coarse sand).  We all skipped rocks, and then my dad came with success.  Going in for a dip, the water was salty and buoyant and wonderful.  I spent some time floating and listening to the music of the rocks and sand skimming themselves because of the waves.  We read as our parents played frisbee and went to get beer.

¡Paco!
We went back to the apartment and showered before going to a beachfront hotel (Hotel Palace).  Paco was right in the lobby, waiting for us.  He is my mom´s uncle (he is the husband of her mother´s sister.  It was so great to see him--he hadn´t changed a bit.  After some discussion, we decided to stay where there was AC; eating in the hotel we weren´t actually staying at.  Paco talked nonstop :).
I ate french fries, potatoes with a yummy meat broth, and a Catalán soup that was very similar to chicken noodle soup.  For dessert I tried curd with honey and that was okay, but there was also a delicious cream and chocolate cake thing and arroz con leche.

Paco is a wonderful guy.  He pretends to not like his wife´s dog Mia, yet takes her for half-hour walks and had a glimpse of a smile in his eyes as he talks about her.  He talks very wisely about politics and economics of Spain, surprisingly fiery about those topics, and inquires about how my mom and such.  We went back to our apartment and talked and ate tapas.  Paco left after a nice goodbye a couple of hours later.

After Paco
We walked home after walking Paco to his car, chilling for a bit, before going to bed.
3 am:  The wind and rain woke me up.  It was an epic storm, and my dad was already awake; V and my mom joined soon after.  We watched the rain and lightning bolts for half an hour, illuminating the mostly dark buildings and roads glistening with rain. 

Spanish tortilla for breakfast


Stormy night

Saturday, October 22, 2016

Day ___: Spain Day 1 & 2

September 6 and 7

The flight from Raleigh to Toronto left at 4:20 pm.  The flight itself was no problem, though I was not happy with the 8th Harry Potter book very much, and this threatened to derail my entire sense of belonging with Harry Potter and my mental well-being.  The flight was also pushing us to get to our 7:10 flight fast.

The trip overseas was good--I finished The Cursed Child within 2 hours, and found that all of the characters had redeemed themselves into the characters that I had envisioned before, minus the whole Ginny-being-anti-sugar-for-at-least-a-phase-of-time. But I loved it.

I slept on and off with Vanessa for a few hours, then awoke to the nice (aka hot) flight attendant giving me a cold breakfast package (aka a blueberry muffin, a plastic fork and knife, and butter).  The rest of the ride was spent reading the second of the Millennium series, The Girl Who Played With Fire.  We landed in Spain at 7:45am Spain-time.

Car Rental
By 10 or so we were at the Solmar rental car place right outside of the airport.  And the wait was so looooong.  It was pretty ridiculous, the way every customer had to be given a 15 minute spiel/debate ads to what expensive insurance they should get instead of the cheaper basic insurance.  Finally, thou, we got our car and drove it into Barcelona.  We were starving.

Jamón Serrano, here we come
We parked in a public deck and walked thirty seconds to a place Vanessa had spotted: La Pata Negra.  Our dad was left at the table whole the ladies went to wash their hands, and the waiter came right as my sister and I left the table.  We hurried to the rescue as our dad tried to speak to him and ordered water to drink.  Then we ate like Spaniard kings: the cured ham (jamón serrano) sandwiches were freaking amazing.  Crunchy crust, soft inside Spanish bread with tomato rubbed on the inside; in the center layers of flavorful, smooth jamón.  And as my mom said, as Spaniards we don't need more than a simple, perfect sandwich.

Premia. . .oops jk, Pineda de Mar
So, my dad did an awesome job getting us to a town, but we didn't realize until driving around for a while that it was the wrong town. We wanted the further north Pineda de Mar, not Premia de Mar.  After calling our Airbnb hostess a few times, we got there and saw her at the town's train station that juts right up to the sea.
The apartment rocks.  Enough said :)

Eating
We chilled a tiny bit, then walked for literally an hour, trying to find a place to eat.  We hadn't eaten anything since the delicious jamon sandwiches, so at 5:55 we started scouting out restaurant.  In Spain, people eat dinner from 7-11 or so, so almost nothing was open.  We ended up back at the street our apartment is at, at a place that promised bocadillos and tapas.  Well, for us, it promised an open area full of men playing cards and betting, a ton of cigarette smoke, some really good salted peanuts (I was that hungry), water, and a waiter who spoke Catalán, the language of the Spanish region Cataluña, and not Spanish very well,  He informed me that they had 3 types of sandwiches and no tapas.
We ended up at The Buccaneers, an Irish restaurant that had patatas bravas and croquetas as their Spanish part of the menu.  The bravas were hot and delicious, the sauce tasting of the Spanish sausage chorizo, and the croquetas good except breaded in corn meal.  The owner and our waitress were really nice too.  I hadn't expected the first dinner I ate in Spain this trip would be at a non-Spanish restaurant, but The Buccaneers was a fine alternative if it HAD to happen.

"Home"
We stopped by a small supermarket to buy essentials: anchovy-stuffed olives, cheese, bread and Nocilla (the best creation known to man), beer (don't worry guys, not for me), María cookies, peaches, salchichón, and chocolate.  We proceeded to feast when we got home, and then I went straight to bed at 9:05.

Day 2
I woke up at 10:20 after an okay-night's sleep.  I unpacked my bulging suitcase and Mama went for a run.  I journaled on the sunny balcony overlooking the smattering of gardens, the buildings, and the hint of sea.
Breakfast was a gorgeous, unpasteurized (YES, America, that's a thing, and no one here is dying of bacterial infection), delicious fried egg, a hunk of bread, a few slices of peach, and a María cookie.

Lunch
After a bit, we drove to Girona, stopping at a restaurant on the side of the highway near a town called Quart.  Of course, as a Spanish custom, olives with pits and bread to begin.  I got buñuelos de bacalao (fried cod) as my first plate, and sardines for the second.  The buñuelos were good--small, fried, only slightly fishy.  The sardines were delicious, though the buttery sauce wasn't needed.  For my dessert I got a panacota de chocolate, a luscious chocolate cream mousse.

Girona
We got to Girona and parked in a deck.  We came up to the ground and looked at an old Girona hospital exhibit, then walked aimlessly to a centro-looking areas.  It was all shops--we bought paraguayos, the best fruits ever that can't be found in North Carolina, a Costa Brava map and a Girona map for free by the nice store owner, and my mom and Vanessa got some cute shoes at a shoe store called Mary Paz.  Then we all realized that we were in Girona's commercial district, not the historic one.  We walked back near our deck and found the beautiful river and historic cathedral, buildings, and fortress on the other side.  The views were incredible, and as were the people.  All sorts of people walked around the old, yet hip cobblestone street with shops, benches, and trees lining them.  Vanessa and I each bought a pastry: V a sugar and cream sheet, me a reixcha: a criss-crossed wedge of chocolate and pastry. 
Then we found steps going upward via alleyways, and followed them until we saw the fortress, cathedral above and the city of Girona below.  The fortress was inter-connected by 2 long, high walls with narrow passages and the top and slits cut in the wall for low-and-arrow shooting at intruders.  We walked along this, listening to the almost-constant chapel bell from 6:30 to 7:15.

Tapas and Music
We walked back to the busy old street and sat outside at a tapas bar, listening to an awesome musician  singing on the side of the road by the river and bridge. We listened to him singing popular American songs while eating chorizo, bread with tomato, and cheese.

We drove home in the night, and stopped by the supermarket as we walked through Pineda to get to the apartment.  Vanessa finished the eight Harry Potter book, so we talked until 2 about it :)

Day 1 Pictures
Toronto from the air

'Sup Canada!  How you doin?


First food in Spain!

View from the Pineda de Mar apartment

Tapas in apartment

BREAKFAST IS LIFE
Day 2 Pictures

Cool art in Girona


Yay paraguayos!

Reixcha pastry of deliciousness

Old part of Girona

Admiring the view

Look at this awesome plant in the fortress!

View from the fortress wall

The river threading into Girona's old region